Leaving Aïnhoa up a very steep hair-pinned road with Christ on his cross at every bend we came to a cavalry of 3 life-size crucifixes above the Chapelle de L'Aubépine. We left the route (though without realising this - the main path leads this way) to climb Ereby, before joining a flattish track leading to the Gîte d'étape at Gorospil.
Crossing the valley and climbing to the Col de Méhatché where the Atlantic finally disappears from view leads across the top to descend into the Col d'Artzatéy where eagles? were circling in the thermals. We followed the almost empty road most of the way to Bidarray where we found a shop selling provisions - at last!